Saturday, February 2, 2008

Gideon's Mt. Tipolog

Gideon. Obo-bagobo. His frame rippling with muscles. I can tell even through his loose T-shirt. He smiles easily and answers all my questions. Nice guy. But short. He only reaches up to my chin. Is his wife smaller, I wonder? Gideon walks up the trail in front of me, his legs like tree trunks. He is walking barefoot. Where are his shoes? Don't his feet hurt? They are really big. Maybe he doesn't own shoes? Nevermind. I look at my own three-day old Merrel shoes that cost me 3,000 pesos. Bought them just for this climb up Mt. Tipolog located in Barangay Tawantawan, Baguio District, Davao City. Gideon's bare feet versus my well-heeled feet. I'm embarrassed. Then again, I reassure myself that he's a man of the mountains and I'm a woman of the paved roads who's just passing through.

We arrive at Gideon's house that is nestled on a plateau a few hundred meters above Panigan river, and directly below the peak of Mt. Tipolog. My buddy, Ian, and I spot a cottage with a roof of climbing ivy and under it a table and benches where we happily spread our camera equipment and stretch our tired legs. A couple of feet away, Gideon's wife is pedaling on a contraption that removes the husks from the coffee beans that she has laid out to dry in front of their house. I remove the plastic containers with our packed lunch of red rice, chicken adobo and fresh pipino and kamatis, and call everyone to eat. A little girl of about three years old shyly approaches and I hand her a plateful of food. It's Gideon's daughter.



Me: Where are your other children? He: I only have one. Me: Why? He: Because I'm already 42. Soon, I won't have enough strength left to farm and raise more kids. Me: I see. I notice Gideon's wife is taller than him.

We finish lunch delighting in the cool breeze that's so hard to find in the concrete desert of downtown Davao City. I offer everyone Cloud 9 chocolates for dessert. Then Gideon tours us around his farm. He grows bananas, coconuts, cacao, coffee, madre de cacao, flamengia, and plants out of which he makes soft brooms.

Me: Why don't you grow bananas only? Why not work in the pineapple plantations like your neighbors? He: Monocropping's very risky. It's better to plant many things because that way, I have something to sell every month. My friends who work in the plantations have huge debts. Me: How come? He: I don't know why exactly. Probably because they borrowed money from the companies because their salary's not enough. Me: So where do you buy your seedlings? He: I grow them myself.

It has stopped drizzling and the clouds have cleared. We decide to climb further to where we can get a good shot of the pineapple plantations below. I grab my cap, my camera and a bottle of mineral water. The video cam's with Ian. When Gideon puts on his boots, I notice there are cracks in them. He motions me to take the lead followed by Ian who, between heavy panting, tells me he misses his computer already. I tease him, "Faster Yan! Don't walk up the mountain! Climb!" The poor dear is sweating like crazy, his face transformed into a waterfall. His T-shirt is so wet, it is drip dropping every step of the way.

We finally reach the top and Ian and I temporarily forget Gideon as we discuss how to take the best shots. There are pineapples as far as our eyes can see. In the surrounding mountains, only the peaks still have forest covers. I count 15 landslides. Gideon blames them on farmers who cut trees and replace them with cash crops whose roots are not big and strong enough to hold the soil together. He says that's his big realization: "We need trees!"

I remove from my pocket a study by Interface Development Interventions (IDIS) and read that logging operations in the area started as early as the 1950s. Among the first two to operate were North Sam and the Alcantara-owned Kalinan Timber Corporation (KTC). The KTC – one of the biggest logging concessionaires in Mindanao – operated in Mt. Tipolog until it was virtually denuded in the 1970s. The mountain's so-called "virgin forest" lasted only up to 1974 due to large-scale logging operations. During this period, there was no reforestation program to speak of – either by the logging companies or by the government.

The second wave of logging operations in the area took place in the 1980s. The new logging operations by the Menggotes and Navarros did not just cut trees but also harvested what was left of the denuded forest – rattan, bamboo, abaca, fruits, etc. The stripped areas left by the logging operators were then taken over by the locals – the Lumads and the Visayan settlers.

I further read on that in 1972, the Bureau of Forestry allowed the local folks to practice kaingin (swidden farming or "slash-and-burn") as long as they would cultivate the area they burned. During this period, the planting and cultivating of new crops, like cacao and banana, began. When the price of coffee shot up to Php 20 per kilo in 1978, people began rushing up the mountain to plant more coffee.

I leaf through the study to the part about the pineapple and banana plantations currently dotting the landscape: In the early 1980s, the Davao Agricultural Ventures Corporation (DAVCO) started to operate its pineapple/banana plantations in Baguio District located some 300 to 1000 meters above sea level. Since 1995, DAVCO has started to expand up to the Tawan-tawan poblacion. In 2000, Dole, a banana-growing company, also began operating in Tawan-tawan.

It is said that the higher the altitude of a place, the sweeter the fruits. With the increasing demand nowadays for sweeter bananas abroad, the back side of Mt. Tipolog has been reportedly constantly eyed by plantations as a possible area for expansion. After all, the area does not only have a high altitude – which can guarantee the sweetness of bananas – but also a fertile soil spewed by the "lost volcano" which was Tipolog years ago.

I look up from the paper and gaze down at the big parcels of land that used to be planted with coffee and banana and that now have been transformed into a pineapple Disneyland. I still remember the day when I, Bayani, Jae and Elma, friends from UP Los BaƱos, almost drowned in the vast sea of pineapples. We were on our way home from water tubing down Sibulan river, visiting the Philippine eagles, and our parents' farm in Maligatong, Tawantawan. Bayani and I wanted to take a short cut through the pineapple fields to give Jae and Elma a close up look at the fruits that have been wreaking havoc on the soil and causing erosion everywhere. To make a long story short, we got hopelessly lost. That's how huge the plantations are.

What I find particularly hard to understand is that these parcels of land owned by poor farmers are rented by the companies for about Php 12,000 to Php 15,000 a hectare every year. That's a measly one thousand pesos a month! How many pineapples and bananas can be planted in one hectare? Certainly much more than one thousand pesos? They must be. Abroad a bunch of bananas costs much, much more than what a Filipino farmer earns growing it.


One of the ongoing controversies in Davao City is that the plantations are located close to the water resources, namely Panigan river that runs through Tawantawan and Carmen, Tamugan river in Tambobong, and Talomo river in Tamayong. What is alarming is that these rivers, identified by the Davao City Water District (DCWD) as future sources of drinking water of Davao City, are located near plantations that spray all sorts of chemicals against pest infestation.

Right now Davao City pumps its drinking water from underground. But because of the growing population, studies by the Asia Geodyne and Japan International Cooperation (JICA) show that in 2013, Davao City will start to experience water shortage. By 2017, the estimated deficit will be 70 million liters per day. The JICA study even predicts that by 2025, a deficit of 45% of the demand will be experienced by Davao City. When that happens, we will have to start using the surface water of Panigan river, Tamugan river, and Talomo river. But tell me, what use will we have of rivers which will undoubtedly be undrinkable soon because of the chemicals from the plantations and soil erosion due to the absence of soil conservation measures. Water contamination has already happened in other places (here and abroad) that are surrounded by plantations, and other such environmentally degrading industries.

To help understand the gravity of our situation, take a look at the Netherlands, that tiny country in Europe which everybody knows, has one of the best drinking water in the world. But why is this possible after decades of pesticide-use in the tulip fields has made the chemicals seep through the soil and into the water? Simple. The Netherlands is rich. Every year, the country spends billions of euros on purifying its water.

We, Davaoenos, take great pride in the fact that our city has the best drinking water in the Philippines and the second best drinking water in Asia. But just think: If our city's drinking water sources get contaminated, where will we get the billions of pesos to purify our water? I guess we will just have to resort to buying expensive bottled water just like they are already doing in some parts of Lanang. Not to mention Panabo City and Tagum City. Or Metro Manila and Cebu City.

It is reassuring to know, however, that every month, community-based water monitoring teams have been organized to check our rivers' water quality. These teams are composed of local barangay officials and residents who take pains to measure the phosphate content, nitrogen content, water temperature, acidity, color, dissolved oxygen, and streamflow discharge. So far, the results show that the water is still drinkable.

This, however, is does not mean much if we take into consideration that the monitoring teams do no check all indicators of potability like coliform count. The results simply mean that the rivers can still pass for Public Water Supply Class I and Class II. That is, the rivers can be tapped for drinking but require disinfection or treatment first.

What I find alarming is that within a one year monitoring project, five kinds of pesticide residues were detected in the sampling station in Panigan River, Carmen. It is not quite clear to me how much more chemicals the monitoring teams should find in the water before somebody will officially declare the water toxic. And what will happen then? Will the city government make an ordinance requiring all plantations to go organic and relocate to areas far, far away from the City's water resources?

The good news is that after more than 17 months since the start of the Stop the Toxic Shower Campaign, Davao City won a court case against the Philippine Banana Growers and Exporters Association (PBGEA) to ban aerial spraying in plantations in the city. This is undoubtedly an immensely huge step in proactively preventing the contamination of our water resources. The bad news is that the struggle's not yet over. PBGEA has filed for a reconsideration at the Court of Appeals in Cagayan de Oro City. PBGEA claims that stopping aerial spraying will severely hurt their revenues, making it impossible for them to cost-efficiently continue producing bananas.

I beg to disagree. To illustrate what I mean, I would like to use the Oscar winning documentary, "An Inconvenient Truth," as an example. In it, former US president, Al Gore shows scales balancing gold bars on one side, and on the other side, the entire planet. Having to decide between the two is, he says, a false choice for two reasons. "If we don't have a planet…" At this point, Al Gore just looks at the picture of the earth on the scales. Then he continues, "The other reason is that if we do the right thing then we are going to create a lot of wealth and we're going to create a lot of jobs. Because doing
the right thing moves us forward." My point exactly. Why do we have to choose between the economy and the environment when there are so many ways to still profit economically through environmentally friendly ways of crop cultivation?



With expanding markets for bananas, and now China opening up, it is inconceivable that banning aerial spraying will cause the collapse of the multinational plantations. In fact, they could probably easily double all the salaries of all the work force in all the plantations and still profit. The multinational plantations claim that if they do not spray chemicals with their airplanes, they are going to lose a lot of money. In reality, I suspect that the ban will not even make a dent. This has been hard to prove though because the companies do not show their financial statements and open their bookkeeping to public scrutiny. And quite understandably so because of their huge profits that will probably blow us all away.

A case in point is the Floirendo-owned Tagum Development Corporation or Tadeco. It is one of the country's biggest banana exporters with more than 9,000 workers, and is reportedly producing 55 million boxes of bananas each year, and earning as much as Php 80.08 billion annually! (source: Bulatlat, 2006)

Beside me, Gideon is still pensively looking at the vast green carpet of pineapples and bananas that is spread out around Mt. Tipolog like some sort of garden of Eden. The sweetest fruits getting the best water in the whole country. But until when will the water last? As long as our water resources remain uncontaminated. As soon as we ban aerial spraying for good.

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Friday, January 25, 2008

Hacienda Macalauan

“Apparently, sticking our arms into lots of cow shit has not curbed our appetite.”

The Monday after Herbalife’s Spectacular, Che and I stayed the whole day at the English Department of Ateneo de Manila University giving teachers a free health and wellness evaluation that includes a fat analysis. Side tripped to Jesscom and shopped for shoes in Baranka, Marikina. At around 6 p.m., left for Laguna to visit my brother, Bayani, in Hacienda Macalauan, a dairy farm that provides the milk of Manila-based coffee shops (except Starbucks).

It is already dark when Bayani and Grace, his girlfriend, pick up me and Cheryl at a road junction in the blue car that he and his three colleagues share. When we arrive, Bayani parks in front of a huge sprawling air-conditioned house that has a huge living room, four big bedrooms, a television, a washing machine and a dryer, and a huge refrigerator. (Kuyawa uy.) Maiden is the only other vet in the house; the other vets are in Thailand and in Makati. When Bayani and Grace’s former schoolmates at UP LosBanos, Jae and Elma, arrive, Che and I get to work on the Herbalife demo and answer everyone’s questions. First mission accomplished.

The next morning, Che and I get up from our sofa beds in the living room to find that Bayani and Maiden have already left to check up on the cows. So with camera in tow, Che and I step out of the house to explore the dairy farm by ourselves. For about 30 minutes, we stand watching in fascination at 10 male cows or “bulls” who are taking turns mounting each other. One bull’s nose is tied to a metal bar and the other bull is led to stand behind it. Everyone waits patiently for the second bull to mount the first one. Why are the farmhands urging one bull to have sex with another bull?

Bayani arrives and explains that that’s how semen’s collected from the animals. A single ejaculation is collected, and when it is processed, some 100 straws can be produced from it. In the laboratory, each straw has the potential to become a cow or a bull after its fertilized with an egg. The resulting male eggs are discarded, only the female eggs are kept and implanted in a cow’s ovary. In Hacienda Macalauan, female cows are valued for their milk and bulls are valued for their semen.

He continues the lecture: one bull can mate naturally with 10 cows. But here in Hacienda Macalauan, because of artificial insemination, one bull can provide processed semen for over a hundred cows. Bayani: What we are doing is not genetic modification but selection. We select the traits we like in a cow or bull, and because of these traits we use them in breeding, so that these traits will be passed on to their offspring. He laughs and shrugs: This is how it goes on all farms. With pigs too you know. (Me: I’m glad I’m not a cow. Bayani: You should be glad you’re not any farm animal. Me: Bitaw no?)

We hop on the motorbike and Bayani drives us to the part of the farm where Maiden oversees the milking of the cows. Four heavy metal tubes are attached to each cow’s tits. The pressure sucks the milk which flows into a hose and is then collected in a container. If there’s no more milk that flows through the hose, that means the cow has no more milk and the tubes are removed. Bayani says it’s important to suck out all the milk from the cow’s tits, I mean, breasts, to avoid infection. I watch Maiden demonstrate how to milk a cow with her hand. Then it’s my turn. I curl my fingers around the black rubber-like tit, first the thumb and my pointing finger and then the rest of my fingers. Yippee, a strong spurt of milk!

Next stop: infanticipating cows. There’s a row of cows lined up beside each other. Bayani leads one into a pen so tiny that the cow can barely move. He then puts on a glove that reaches up to his armpits and covers his right shoulder, he rubs a lotion on the glove, and then slowly sticks his hand up the anus of the poor beast. When Bayani removes his hand, bits of dark brown shit tumble out. Cheryl and I shriek in disgust. Once all the shit’s removed, Bayani’s whole arm disappears in the anus.

He explains: “First, you have to remove all the cow’s shit. Close your hand when you put it in the anus. Once inside, spread your hand flat and feel the fetus.” Che gives it a try and tentatively puts her hand in the cow’s behind. Gosh it’s hot, she says. Then she pushes further, her whole arm now stuck in the cow’s behind. She gets alarmed when the cow’s butt muscles contract and she shrieks. I snap a picture to send to her husband, Bryan. Second mission accomplished.

It’s now 9:30 a.m. Time for breakfast. Che and I leave Bayani with his cows and head towards the house where a delicious meal of fish and eggs is waiting on the table. Apparently, sticking our arms into lots of shit has not curbed our appetite. Thanks Doc Broeck for the amazing tour!

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Genevieve, Rolita and Analyn

When I was in Manila, I texted some high school classmates to get together: Kristin, Armi May, Maye Ann, Stella, Sheila, Arianne, Amihan, and Dominador. Armi texted back that she’s in Thailand, Stella texted she’s in Antique, Kristin let me know she’d try to make it. The rest, no reply. At the last minute, good old Jerry preferred to leave me in the hands of my girl friends. So that’s how I met up with Genevieve, Rolita and Analyn at the Renaissance hotel’s lobby. Hadn’t seen Gen since last summer, Rolita since 2001, and Analyn since 1998.

(Genevieve is a good friend from Antique who is now teaching creative writing in La Salle University. Rolita was my elementary and high school classmate. She is now based in Manila and into the outsourcing business. Analyn was a classmate in college. She’s also based in Manila working as the accountant of a chain of restaurants.)

So there we were sitting in a corner of the Renaissance’s lobby – me and the three friends I got to know during different parts of my life. Funny thing was that they all knew me but didn’t know each other. It was so good to see them and talk about our work, etcetera! Shared to them of course my Herbalife story, then we went out for a late dinner in a Thai restaurant in Greenbelt. Had an interesting conversation about the guy who has all the books of Richard Dawkins. More I shall say not. (If I spill every interesting thing that we talked about, nobody would want to meet up with me anymore knowing that the next week they’d end up in my blog. So, pasensya na mo.)

At about past ten we called it a night because the next day was a Monday. I’m looking forward to Analyn coming to Davao this March, Rolita coming in December (tinuod?), and Genevieve I’ll be seeing again in April I suppose.

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There are no fat ferraris

Went to Manila last weekend to join Herbalife’s Spectacular gathering. Was impressed by the before and after results of Herbalifers. Especially the man with the nine-month beer belly that just disappeared. (Pregnant-looking males out there – there’s still hope for you!) One woman with a terrific sense of humor said she’s 60, but looked like she’s 35. Her secret? She drinks about 6 shakes a day. With that much fiber and vitamins and minerals a day, how can she not be detoxified! Another woman who looked huge before when she was in her 30s, but fit and trim now that she’s in her late 50s, said that she has probably one of the unhealthiest families – diabetes, UTI, constipation, ulcer – you name it, they have it. But with the herbal food of Herbalife - she’s been able to “correct” those problems, slim down, and increase her energy level! I found it inspiring to see so many people like her look very unhealthy when they were younger, but now that they’re older look much, much younger.

Another highlight of Spectacular gathering was Dr. Luigi Gratton, the sexy and good-looking top physician of Herbalife who is also the nutritionist of LA Galaxy, David Beckham’s soccer team. (My companions, Evelyn and Cheryl, gushed that Dr. Luigi has the cutest butt which I didn’t dare contest because every time he ventured into the crowd, women screamed.) Dr. Luigi answered technical questions about how many percent of this is in that tablet and so on. That’s a seemingly uh, not very interesting conversational topic, but boy was Dr. Luigi clear and precise. His eloquence, as well as the fun and passion with which he talked about herbs and the human body, made me actually feel bad that I didn’t study to be a doctor myself.

Gala night found us all sitting in our immaculate gowns and suits around dinner tables on which were laid out the softest wheat bread. The main course was a choice between salmon and beef. No soft drinks, only iced tea; and fruits for dessert. The whole time, top distributors of Herbalife were made to go on stage and receive long-stemmed red roses instead of the usual medals and trophies. More testimonials. More picture-taking. All the while in my head: “Some people waste their health going after wealth only to later on spend their wealth to try and take back their health.”

DR. LUIGI GRATTON: “The human body is like a car’s engine. It needs fuel to function. The difference is that when you put too much gasoline in a car’s engine, the gasoline just spills out. But if you eat more food than your body needs, the food will just be absorbed… and absorbed… and absorbed by your body. The point is: there’s no such thing as a fat Ferrari.”


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Wednesday, January 2, 2008

My Year In A Nutshell

Last year was one of the best and worst years. Finished my thesis, graduated with an MA degree and said goodbye to friends in Ateneo de Manila University; visited Bayani in Los Banos, Evohn in Antique, and went snorkeling in Palawan; joined a “peace” meeting in Midsayap; made the first two big investments of my life – talakitok and equities in Philam. Broke up with Ariel (sigh) but rediscovered friendships with Giselle (I’d like to believe) and Joey Baby. Watched four friends get hitched: Julie to Jun-jun, Joey to Chris, Chechu to Bryan, and Doms to Erwin.

For five months, had been dead set on spending my work leave volunteering in China. Even got all the prerequisites but then changed my mind because it dawned on me that I’d have to teach English as a Foreign Language which is more tiring than teaching English as a Second Language.

To get my mind off my first love, Joey let me host VIEWFINDER on MIX FM with the top college debaters in Mindanao as regular guests. But listeners complained we were too serious. So from political dynasties and animal testing, we switched to relationships, sports and the Internet. One caller suggested we talk about whether masturbation is evil. I told her, “No problem, stay tuned.”

Fran got me hooked on Multiply where I have posted the pics of that painful climb up Mount Dulang-Dulang, the best preserved mountain in the Philippines according to George Tapan. The wind and rain gushing through the trees sounded like angry waves crashing and colliding. That’s how it seemed like the entire time we were up there some 2,800 meters above sea level.

With Linda’s encouragement, I started polishing my pen through blogspot and revived my trusty Macho I Love Yous and Ode to Ms. Javellana to name some. (This year, the blog entries are going to be shorter, I promise.)

I went to the gym regularly, running as fast as I could and feeling great, my mountain bike waiting for me in vain. Persistent Che who looked great without exercise kept on bugging me about joining Herbalife. Finally I conceded and joined a meeting in a room of non-stop clapping and gushing: “wow!” “amazing!” “yes!” Now I’m part of the crazy bunch of former security guards, single moms, dentists, manicuristas, students, NGO workers, and entrepreneurs.

Mind you, I’ve become a lover of Herbalife’s chocolate shake yet haven’t given up on my exercise. This is how I intend to still feel and look like I’m 35 even if I’m already 60. If Cory Quirino can do it and tons of other people, so can I! When she and Jaime Licaoco came to Davao City and held a talk about healing body, mind and spirit at the Royal Mandaya hotel, I dropped everything I was doing just to listen to them. Mr. Jaime told us, “We humans use only 1% of our brains.” That got me thinking about my own underused brains.

At home one night, Yummy got the terrific idea for me to pursue law school just like her. “Maya, you’re good in English and you’re hardworking,” she said. Her enthusiasm rubbed off on me and I spent hours solving math problems (my waterloo) in order to pass the entrance exams to law schools around the country. All the while I fantasized about how I’d defeat in court the multinational companies that are encroaching on Davao City’s watersheds. What a fulfilling life I thought. Two months later, Father Nazareno and some newspaper columns about how hard law school really is made me change my mind again. (I’m finicky I know.)

Good thing, Paul happened and made me realize filming’s what I really want to pursue. The offers poured in one documentary after another and soon I was digging into my savings to buy my own videocamera, an extra battery, a microphone, a headphone, lights, and teamed up with college buddy, Arthur a.k.a. Ian. I liked life behind the cameras so much that I decided to apply for a film school scholarship in Singapore, got positive results, only to be turned down by my bosses. Too expensive daw. Besides, there are enough local teachers to teach Mass Communications daw. Bummer. But I’m not giving up!

Cheska’s good friend, Ryan gave me the contact numbers of Filipino filmmaker, Nick de Ocampo who graduated at the top of his class at the New York Film Academy. He’s been making documentaries for at least two decades now. And he headed the guerilla filmmaking workshop in Davao City which Ryan joined. I’m going to e-mail Mr. Nick today and try to join the two-month film workshop he always gives in summer.Have a fabulastic new year everyone!

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Saturday, December 22, 2007

A Day in Tawan-tawan

8:00 a.m. Wake up.
9:00 a.m. Meet Ian at the L300 station in Bankerohan
10:00 a.m. Arrive in Calinan.

Bought 2 cans of corned beef, 2 cans of sausages, 2 cans of meatloaf, 2 kilos of rice, 2 bottles of mineral water, 2 packs of chips.

With our food and bags of clothes and toiletries, plus our camera equipment, we jump on the motorbike and off we go past Malagos and the Philippine Eagle Foundation toward the pineapple fields where Danny, the protagonist of our video documentary, is waiting.

We arrive at the barangay hall in Tawan-tawan where Danny is the barangay captain. He is sitting on the benches under the trees. Two men are with him. They are truck operators from Davao City's Engineer's Office. Ian and I head towards them and start chatting while waiting for the trucks with sand and gravel to arrive.

We talk about organic rice versus chemical-based rice. God and evolution, the big bang, natural selection. People with lots of children and people with few children. Danny says he doesn't believe in using contraceptives because that's not what God wants. I quip that it's worse for a couple to have kids they can't support.

Come to think of it, my grandmother has 19 kids. Actually, 15 kids. (Four were blue babies.) Lola had them all born at home in Lolo's studio bureau – except for auntie Agnes. Last year when I visited Lola she said that if she were to live her life again, she'd still have them all again. My superwoman.

Hey, I have to go. Will finish Danny's story when the filming's over. Next year probably. Stay tuned.



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Monday, December 3, 2007

In Solitude




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